It was a meal fit for a king. The wine alone cost a king’s ransom, while the price of admission most assuredly was a princely sum.

Last Saturday night’s tribute at Copia to wine legend Robert Mondavi brought together family, fellow vintners, industry insiders, friends and fans.

A wine and food gala — coupled with a drawing room-style conversation by the vintner’s family and close industry friends — was attended by close to 100 who, at the recent Auction Napa Valley, paid $10,000 each for the privilege. Among the attendees was auction regular Joy Craft, the Woodside resident who this year pledged half-a-million dollars to the biggest lot of the day, one that will bring $1.75 million to Community Health Clinic Ole.

The festive affair was first proposed by vintners Shari and Garen Staglin, of Staglin Family Vineyards, intended as a celebration of Robert Mondavi’s 95th birthday. When the world-renowned vintner died in mid-May, a month short of that celebratory date, the Staglins restructured the Auction Napa Valley lot so that it was a celebration of Mondavi’s life and his important place in the world of wine.

Garen Staglin pointed out to attendees that the Copia gala was “a celebration of a man who meant so much to so many in the world of wine.

“Robert Mondavi was a visionary who challenged himself, and the fine wine industry in America, to strive to make wines which competed with the best in the world. Throughout his life, his pursuit of perfection was accompanied by a willingness to mentor and encourage others.”

Staglin noted that the honoree’s “philanthropic efforts also distinguished him as a person who was committed to make the world a better place.

“He passionately believed that our enjoyment of life could be more complete through wine, food and the arts.”

For those who bid to take part in the evening dedicated to vintner Mondavi, the affair began with a wine reception in the Copia garden. Duckhorn Vineyards sauvignon blanc, Robert Mondavi I-Block fumé blanc and J. Schram Brut from Schramsberg were poured for guests, along with wines from several members of Napa Valley Vintners. A variety of hors d’oeuvres accompanied the wines, the handiwork of executive chef Jeff Mosher and the culinary team at Julia’s Kitchen.

Modest and driven

Guests then moved into the auditorium at Copia where London-based author Jancis Robinson moderated a discussion about Mondavi and his contributions. Taking part were his 93-year-old brother, Peter Mondavi, patriarch of the family that owns and operates Charles Krug Winery; son Tim Mondavi, who’s heading up the  family’s new Continuum winemaking project; and vintners Agustin Huneeus, Margaret Duckhorn and Joseph Phelps.

Reflecting on his charisma (“I’d never met such a strong charismatic character”) and dignity, Robinson said Mondavi “kept all of us wine writers on our toes. He knew a lot more than we did. His spirit will always be with us.”

“He made the world of wine pass through the New World,” Huneeus allowed. “Prior to Bob, it was an Old World game. He never considered (other) winemakers competition. He felt we were all in the same crusade to promote food and wine ... and the good life. I was impressed by his openness and generosity.”

Huneeus recalled that Mondavi was a modest man “who had no limits. He was the Energizer Bunny ... like the rabbit who made it to the end. He was a great inspiration.”

“Bob was our mentor,” declared Margaret Duckhorn. “He continually told us, ‘You can make the best wines in the world,’ and he made us believe in that.”

She talked about Mondavi being ahead of his time, offering tours and tastings at his new winery in the late ’60s and ’70s, sponsoring cultural and food events — “no one did those (at the time). He educated the press, the trade and consumers that wine in moderation is part of a healthy lifestyle.”

Joe Phelps maintained Mondavi was “a romanticist,” for he placed particular emphasis “on the imagination and the emotions.” As he recalled a fond dinner celebration during a Mondavi Summer Festival concert featuring Bobby Short, Phelps termed his longtime friend “an optimist, a man who saw the world in living color.”

Addressing the “wonderful years (they had) together,” Peter Mondavi marveled at his older brother’s energy. “No one could keep up with him,” he declared.

The Krug winery patriarch recalled summer jobs worked with his brother and that the two of them still hold the record for nailing the most fruit boxes together in an hour’s period. He said the record should stand because work like that is done by machine today.

“We had our differences,” he continued. One major difference, he pointed out, was “I couldn’t keep up with him. Bob was the big promoter ... I’m the slower one.”

Addressing a well known familial rift, he noted that his mother — who succeeded his late father as president of the Krug winemaking operation — gave his brother “a  leave of absence” from Krug, and didn’t fire him.

“He went on his own ... he got what he wanted and we maintained the family business. Our folks would have been proud (of what the brothers accomplished). Maybe he did too much for the valley ... he gave up his life. He preached the wine business all over the world. Without him, Napa Valley would not be what it is today. We have to thank Bob.”

Tim Mondavi detailed his father’s travels to other winegrowing regions in the world, trips he and Margrit Mondavi organized to help educate members of the winery staff. He said all were amazed at the couple’s endurance and how his father’s “extremely curious” nature helped him make better wine.

From the first European excursion with his brother, Michael, to the last, the visits to famous wine estates provided the young team of winemakers with answers to Old World winemaking know-how, he said.

“But we were always amazed at his drive, his energy. It was infectious.”

“He lived his life giving to others,” moderator Robinson concluded.

‘Glorious exceptions’

Five acclaimed chefs who’d taken part in the Mondavi winery’s Great Chefs program came to town to prepare the sumptuous repast. Their dishes were paired with 17 wines, provided by the other event-sponsoring wineries — Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Staglin Family Vineyard, Quintessa, Joseph Phelps, Rubicon, Opus One — as well as wines from Continuum and Charles Krug.

Yellow Fin Tuna Ribbons with Avocado, Spicy Relish and Ginger Marinade, prepared by New York chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, was the meal’s first course. Las Vegas chef Julian Serrano served Pan Roasted Scallops with Potatoes Mousseline au Jus de Veau.

The third savory course was the handiwork of well known Bay Area chef Gary Danko, owner of the San Francisco restaurant that bears his name and a soon-to-open bistro in Ghirardelli Square. It featured Warm Bleu Cheese with Roasted Figs, Apricots and Cipollini Onions on Walnut Bread.

Berkeley’s Alice Waters served up Grilled Quail Salad with Pickled Cherries and Garden Lettuces, followed by Chicago chef Charlie Trotter’s Organic Summer Vegetables with Veal Cheek Terrine.

Debbie Yee, Julia’s Kitchen pastry chef, prepared oodles of “Petite Sweets” for guests, paired with several  dessert wines.

Overall, it was a night befitting the honoree’s catch phrase, as noted by event host Garen Staglin: “Moderation in all things, with glorious exceptions.”