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Classy, consistent, tasty wines from Signorello
Friday, June 01, 2007
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Three decades ago, Ray Signorello Sr. pursued his love of wine by buying land and planting grapes on choice acreage along Silverado Trail.

When he and son, Ray Jr., learned just how much established producers thought of the fruit purchased from the Signorello vineyards, the two men decided they should make their own wine.
Once a winery was constructed (initial construction took place in 1986), the Signorello brand was born. While they might not have received as much press as other drumbeaters in wine country, Signorello wines were scooped up by discerning consumers, much to the delight of father and son.

Perhaps part of the brand’s success can be attributed to the fact that the Signorellos spent considerable time in Vancouver (where they also maintained a home), giving Canadians added exposure to superb chardonnays and cabernets produced in those early harvests.
Today, with 50 acres planted to vines, Signorello Vineyards continues to not only produce top-notch single vineyard wines, the 30-year-old company remains committed to the passion of its founder.

Ray Signorello Jr. eased into the role of sole proprietor and head winemaker following the death of his father in 1998.
A dedicated vintner who grew up with great wine on the dinner table, Ray Jr. also makes wine from grapes grown in Canada — the latter for private membership wineries.

The Signorello estate is planted to chardonnay, semillon, sauvignon blanc, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. The winery also produces pinot noir and zinfandel from grapes purchased in Carneros and Calistoga, respectively.

Winemaker Pierre Birebent, a native of France, is a veteran Napa Valley winemaker and knows well the region’s choice vineyards. Together, he and Ray Jr. are producing both white and red wines that have found favor with consumers, ranging from a toasty “old vines” chardonnay that consistently offers pears and tropical fruit on the palate, to Padrone, a Bordeaux blend that pays tribute to Ray Sr., a reserve cabernet blend that’s given extended cellar age before release. Padrone is one of the best expressions of Signorello fruit vintage after vintage.

Recently, we were able to taste some new releases from the Signorello cellar, paired with a menu prepared at the winery by guest chef Daniele Turco, executive chef at the Gritti Palace in Venice, Italy, where he not only presides over the kitchen but also conducts cooking classes for both professionals and foodies.

The pairings included:

Signorello 2003 Seta ($25): A barrel fermented blend of semillon (60 percent) and sauvignon blanc (40 percent), this Napa Valley white wine is made in the tradition of a Graves from Bordeaux. The name, which translates to silk, is appropriate for this rich, silky blend. It’s a full-bodied white with spice and hay on the nose and both honeydew melon and ripe pears on the finish. I really enjoyed the long pear finish of this 100 percent barrel fermented wine — a wine that’s ideal as an aperitif or for pairing with shellfish.

Signorello 2005 Las Amigas Pinot Noir ($38): This wine is from a low-yielding Carneros vineyard owned by Andy Beckstoffer. Bright acidity will allow the wine to pair with a variety of dishes, from pasta to poultry, salmon to saltimbocca. It offers nice smoky, fruit aromas and bright cherries on the entry. There are nice, ripe plums mid-palate and on the lingering finish, with hints of cherry and black pepper.

Signorello 2005 Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50): Made from a prized Carneros grower’s well-manicured vines, this is a lovely, silky pinot that’s a bit earthier, and a lot bigger than the Las Amigas bottling. There’s a slight undercurrent of oak in this gorgeous, full-bodied mouthful of plums. This is a rich wine that’s just right for Saturday night guests or a Sunday dinner featuring roast leg of lamb.

On another occasion, we popped the corks on Signorello’s signature wine, its cabernet sauvignon, and a marvelous estate syrah.

Signorello 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40): Even though the tannins in this particular vintage are relatively soft, I still say, “Bring on the steak.” This is the wine that exudes the expected cassis, or black currant, aroma we expect to find with cabernet. It’s here in spades, along with the vanilla associated with 21 months of oak aging. Again, lingering cassis and blackberries combine in mid-palate and extend through the long, lush finish.

Signorello 2005 Napa Valley Syrah ($36): Expressive of the wonderful fruit from this harvest, this syrah is a wine you need to add to the cellar right now. Co-fermented with viognier (about 4 percent) in traditional Rhone fashion, the wine provides enticing floral notes — even a hint of lavender — and then delivers oodles of spice and blackberries on the palate. This one’s for the serious wine lover, and should prove awesome with grilled meats (including spicy Italian sausage) and game. Signorello and Birebent show us with this one that the Oak Knoll District is also right for growing syrah.
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